W.B. Clarke and Mount Kosciusko

During January 2022 I was contacted by a fellow researcher who required a copy of a geological report by the Reverend W.B. Clarke, who, during 1851-2, carried out surveys for the New South Wales government in the southern and northern districts of the colony. This arose out of the discovery of gold at Sofir, near Bathurst, early in 1851. During these excursions, Clarke made records in the form of diary notes, letters, geological notes and the collection of geological specimens. Due to the often precarious nature of his travels, over areas that had not previously been mapped in any detail, it appears that he frequently sent some of this material back to Sydney for safe keeping with his friend Philip Parker King R.N., former captain of H.M.S. Beagle. King compiled some of this material into reports for the Sydney newspaper the Sydney Morning Herald. Clarke had been the default science editor for the paper since the early 1840s and, as a result, much of his work was reported therein. In the case of the item that my friend was looking for, the news was both good and bad. King published a report in the Herald on 29 January 1852 which referred to the events that would subsequently appear in Clarke's official report to government dated Jindebain, 24 December 1851, but which was not officially published until the middle of the following year within the Votes and Proceedings of the New South Wales Legislative Council, and shortly thereafter, on 16 June 1852, as a supplement in the Herald. King's summary report was also published in part later by Clarke within his small 1860 book Researches in the Southern Goldfields of New South Wales. Copies are all three versions are included below.

W.B. Clarke, Report No. VII, Jindebain, County Wallace, 24 December 1851. On the Gold Localities S.W. of Cooma, and the Geology of the Counties of Beresford and Wallace. (Report 7). Votes & Proceedings of the New South Wales Legislative Council, 1852, volume 1, pp.1-5; Sydney Morning Herald, Supplement, 16 June 1852; Parliamentary Blue Book, London, 1853, volume 16, pp.33-7.

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[Sydney Morning Herald, Wednesday, 16 June 1852]

 COUNCIL PAPERS.

GEOLOGICAL SURVEYS.

No. 1.

LETTER from the Rev. W. B. CLARKE to the COLONIAL SECRETARY, on the Gold Localities S. W. of Cooma.

(VII. Report.)

Jindebain, County Wallace,

24th December, 1851.

Sir, - I have the honour of reporting to you, for the information of His Excellency the Governor-General, the progress I have made in the Geological investigation of this part of the country since I had the pleasure of addressing you from Cooma.

The extraordinary wetness of the season, and the frequent impossibility of carrying on any researches in consequence thereof, very much retarded my labours after my arrival in this district ; but taking advantage of such intervals of fine weather as occurred, I have been enabled

to explore a very considerable portion of the counties of Beresford and Wallace, and to extend my researches to the South-west, as far as the heads of the Murray, the Tambo, the Mitta Mitta, and the Snowy Rivers, returning from the Mitta Mitta by a course only traversed hitherto by one or two stockmen, and only capable of being passed by pack horses, which I employed for the purpose, and which were supplied by Mr. Brooks, of Jejedzrick, who was kind enough to accompany me in the journey. I had thus the satisfaction of passing with my whole train of eleven horses and seven attendants over the highest part of the Muniong ranges, and of remaining part of two days and sleeping one night within a few hundred yards of the snow of Mount Kosciusko, first rendered remarkable by the visit of the Count Strzelecki. I then descended along the rough and very difficult slopes on the right bank of the Krakenbac, following the actual course of the torrent from its western source, and reached this place with no further accident than can be repaired by the tailor, and without any greater inconvenience than results from an attack of slight swamp fever, occasioned by the intense heat of the river valleys and almost constant thunder, rains, and the alternations of cold and damp upon the summits of the mountains, where we occasionally lay at night.

My chief objects in going so far beyond the supposed limits of New South Wales as the Mitta Mitta, were to satisfy myself as to the truth of some reports, derived from the Aborigines, respecting the occurrence of gold somewhere in the mountains about the frontier ; to ascertain the probability of its occurrence on the Indi or Limestone River, as stated upon the authority of the Surveyor-General ; and to study the peculiarities, if any, of its position in that region.

Having with me only a very imperfect chart, in which the ranges and river valleys appeared to me to be incorrectly laid down, I was also disposed to ascertain, as far as I could, whether the boundary line between Victoria and New South Wales ought not to be placed much more to the south than it appears upon some of the published maps, such as Ham's Squatting Map of Victoria. I had not then with me the general map of the Surveyor-General, in which I now see the boundary line placed near the rise of one head of the Indi, nor had I any other legitimate document to which I could refer ; and I name this as my apology for inquiring into a question of the kind. I am, however, gratified at being able to bear my humble testimony to the general accuracy with which the course of the Indi is now delineated. I further venture to express an opinion that, inasmuch as the frontier line between the two provinces was, probably, introduced into the Act of Parliament upon imperfect data as to the actual chief source of the Murray nearest to Cape Howe ; and as the true position will some day have to be unmistakably defined, in order to prevent inconveniences of various kinds, it might be a subject worthy of consideration, how far the British Government might not be justifiably moved as to the propriety of finally running the boundary line between Cape Howe and the actual head of the Murray at Mount Tambo, close to which, overlapping each other, the waters of the Indi and the Tambo take their rise.

An inspection of the various physical features of that region will shew that such a settlement of the point in question would be one satisfactory to the geographical arrangements of the country, and in many ways an act of justice to the province of New South Wales. Having had an opportunity so recently of exploring the ranges and waters between the Mitta Mitta and the Muniong ranges, in parts whither, I think, no surveyor has been, I cannot refrain from remarking that a survey of the Omeo country upon the system carried out so effectually in the Survey Department of New South Wales, would be a great advantage. Such charts as I have seen, are in many respects totally at variance with the actual features of that country. For instance, no reliance can be placed upon the published maps as to the disposition of the waters between Mount Gibbo and the Muniong ; and I am surprised to find that upon the original tracing by the Count Strzelecki of his route from the Murray to Gipps Land, which now lies before me, the Indi River is not marked above the position of his Mount Pinnaba, and is actually shut out by the intervention of a range which is placed across the course of the river where I found it running with a broad, deep, and rapid current, having all the characteristics of an important mountain stream. This too seems the more remarkable, as from Mount Kosciusko the deep and precipitous defile through which its waters flow is seen far below, and is very distinctly marked for several miles.

I do not mention this with even the slightest intention of detracting from the well-earned laurels of so accomplished an explorer as M. de Strezlecki, but, on the contrary, to point how difficult it is for a supplementary survey, such, for example, as that in which I am now engaged, to be prosecuted with success until the orographical and potamical features of a district have been accurately defined. I cannot, after my recent traverses amidst these Alpine rugged and scrubby mountains, sufficiently express my sense of the services rendered to science by the patient and fatiguing labours of Strzelecki under circumstances of difficulty, heightened by his reliance upon an imperfect representation of a region which he could not suppose to be otherwise than correct.

I may here incidently remark, that I found the summits of Muniong to be composed of coarse granite, partly concretionary, much jointed, and rising in denticulated masses and rounded bosses, so as to present in connection with the slopes of snow, the outline of a true "Sierra Nevada." No mica slate, or other schistose rock, save granite, appears along the peaked summit of the range for the space of several miles ; these overlook the dome-like, partly snow-clad, summit of Kosciusko. But on my ascent from Mow-wat to Burramangee, I passed over highly inclined and nearly vertically cleaved glistening mica slate and clay slate, which seem to pass into a gneissiform granite before the actual summit is attained. The structure of the granitic masses, and the disposition of the rivers in N.E. and S.E. channels diverging from the summit, prove the granite to have been in part injected since the formation of the schistose formations. In some places the granite becomes porphyritic, entangling segregated lumps of finer texture, and containing patches of eurite, lepthnite, and tourmaline-pegmatite, with some quartz veins. The action of the snow has removed the softer materials from the surface, and the quartz, therefore, remains exposed, and thus exhibited shews a peculiar disposition in regular lines. The tourmaline places the granite not far from that of Dartmoor, and one might expect tin in the vicinity. I obtained one small specimen from the granite. None was, however, found amidst the detritus. One of the party washed the latter for gold, but no gold could be discovered. I was lying ill at the time upon the rocks, and was unable to superintend the operations ; but on the descent from the junction of the heads of the Krakenbac River, I sought for the metal in vain, though prospecting at all available localities between it and the Thredbo, where the ravine expands.

This disappointment to others at the summit of the Australian Alps, nearly 7000 feet above the sea, was satisfactory to my expectations : it serves to assist in disproving by a valid example the necessity, asserted by some, for the existence of very high mountains, in order to justify the expectation of gold. I am glad, if for no other reason, that I have been enabled to carry a cradle, prospecting pan, pick and shovel, over some of the highest peaks of this continent, and up and down the faces of precipitous mountains, the planes of slope of which are, in many instances, perfect escarpments. This example would not, I confess, be so powerful in illustration as it seems to me, were it not that in the very same granite, at a much lower level, and in a range connected with Muniong I found not only gold, but garnet, and hyacinths, and other associated minerals. I will now enumerate the various localities which I have examined, since my last report, in search of gold.

A On the N.E. side of the great basaltic plateau of Maneero : -

1. Cooma Creeks.

2. Murrumbidgee River at Mittagung,

3. Rock Flat Creek, from the spring near the junction with the Eumaralla River.

4. Jillamatong Creek.

In none of these localities did I detect the presence of gold. The rocks are various slates, quartzite, quartz veins, limestones, and trap.

B. - On the S.W. side of the basaltic plateau :

1. Ural Creek, from the junction with Stony Creek to Woolwye. There is a little gold at the junction.

2. Colibragong, at Iron Pot Creek.

3. Moamba River, four miles west of Jillamatong Hill. Gold occurs in the drift of the river bed in fine particles, intermixed with garnets and hyacinths, and in the decomposing granite fragments from the Moamba Range.

4. Tongaro or Jacob's River, Gold rather scarce, is found in the pebbly alluvium at the junction with the Snowy River ; but not for some distance above the junction.

5. Moyengul River. Similar results at the junction with the Snowy River, but not within a mile of that junction.

6. Berrima River. Slight traces of gold. Slate and quartz shingle with granite.

7. Wiendul under the Cobberas. No gold found. (Porphyry,)

8. Kurnoolee or Warrigal Creek. (Ditto.)

9. Indi or Limestone River, the principal head of the Hume river, at the source, at Warark wary, and at Tangaruccen, places nearly forty miles apart. No gold discovered - slate and granite.

10. Juglymungee Creek, joining the Mitta Mitta, near Gibbo Mountain. Fine gold near the junction.

11. Creek rising in Currancoomungee Range, near Omeo. No water ; but the rocks present an auriferous character. Granite piercing slate.

12. Omeo Plain. Gold occurs occasionally in fragments of ironstone conglomerating quartz.

13. Mitta Mitta River, and creeks on the left bank. Gold very abundant in the decomposed and decomposing granite detritus.

14. Gibbo River. Gold near the mouth.

15. Buumba River. No gold discovered,

16. Waters issuing from the snows of Mount Kosciusko and Burramangee (Ram's Head,) and at the head and in the course of Krakenbac River. No gold found.

17. Wallandaby Creek. No gold found.

18. Snowy River, above Jindebein. Fine gold at a considerable depth in the fluviatic drift, near the usual crossing place.

There are various other localities in this extensive region in which I anticipate the discovery of gold ; but my time did not allow me to do more than examine the geological structures ; and in some places, where the rocks appear to be auriferous, there is no water, as is especially the case in some dry narrow water courses resembling the head of Major's Creek at Araluen. One of these occurs under the trachytie peak of Thalunderamungee.

The examples cited above are instructive, as illustrating a phenomenon forced upon my attention throughout the southern country, and which first attracted my notice at Araluen. I mean the occurrence of gold in granitic rocks of a certain class. The schists and quartzites, so prolific in the basin of the Macquarie, appear to be barren in this part of the colony; and I have travelled for miles in succession over the exposed outcrop of quartz veins without discovering a trace of gold. On the contrary, I have always found it in connection with granite of some kind ; and the prevalence of this fact leads me to the conclusion, that no gold is likely to be found in this part of the territory except of that fine kind which is so generally discovered.

The want of a proper confidence in the bearing of this fact will deter many persons from availing themselves of the provision, however plentiful or scanty, which has been made for them. Being too indolent to labour, and greedy of gold in the mass, many will turn away from the localities of granite gold with contempt or disgust ; whilst it is highly probable that, in the enormous area through which granite has risen, there is, in the aggregate, as much of the precious metal as in a smaller region where it occurs in larger masses. On the Mitta Mitta, there is sufficient gold in dust and flakes to remunerate industrious persons by a return of from seven to nine shillings per diem, and, unless my data are erroneous, gold is distributed in this way for 30 or 40 miles in length and across an extensive river basin. On arriving at the river, I very soon discovered the habitat of the gold to be a peculiar species of granite, approaching the talcose rock of America, and after washing some of the alluvium, I broke up the rounded blocks upon the river beach and washed the fragments. Gold and hyacinths were in this way instantly procured.

The auriferous character of the alluvium had been ascertained by a small party of four persons who had been working for a day or two in a small space on the left bank of the river, but they were about to abandon it, because the gold is fine. They expected to obtain it in lumps : but I explained to them the improbability of such discovery, and showed them under what circumstances it is alone to be expected there. The party are all occupiers in New South Wales. As the rock producing the gold is distributed largely in the Inieemungce Range and at the head of the Mitta Mitta, and as its boulders line the banks of the river for many miles, I doubt not, ere long, a profitable field of labour will be developed.

I enclose herewith, a sample of the gold and a specimen of the rock from which I obtained it, by the simple process of crushing and washing on the spot. The gold of Gibbo is of the same character, but there is at the base and on the slopes of that range, in addition, much argentiferous galena. So far as I could judge from large tracts of worthless country just over the boundary, I do not think this colony has lost very much, save in these metalliferous deposits, by the separation, i. e., about these localities ; and even where the land and water are favorable, there exists a fly, which, in some instances, renders it impossible, for cattle to thrive. I saw so much of this pest, that I was very glad to get away from it. Even the wild cattle which we fell in with exhibited signs of distress and poverty, in pasture up to their shoulders ; and our horses and dogs at our encampments were as well as ourselves, persecuted beyond endurance. The Mitta Mitta is in a better country, and Omeo is one of the most beautiful localities I have seen ; but the climate is fickle, and the land subject to droughts. This season it is as green as emerald, "dives picta vestís et auri."

The Mitta Mitta is a very considerable river, deep in places, wide, and extremely rapid. Where I crossed it it was scarcely fordable, and running with a violent current over vast masses of shingle and blocks of stone brought down from above. It is now swollen by rains and snow, but, probably, its bed in a drier season will repay a search for gold. At some height above the present bank, the metal is found in the more ancient alluvia, and in the gullies and ranges of the left bank ; we found it in the superficial soil.

Although this gold field is in another province, yet it is impossible to disregard the value of its indications as they affect the extension of similar rock formations in this. Upon the strength of these indications, I rely with confidence on the future discovery of gold in the river channels and ranges running north-westwardly between the Murray and Murrumbidgee, and it is very satisfactory to me to be able to prove the truth of this opinion by placing before you an extract from a letter which I have just very opportunely received. It will certainly shew, that in my predictions I have not been deceived.

 "Carrabost, Tarcutta Creek, Nov. 20,1851.

"My Dear Sir, - Although some years have passed since we met at Appin, I have, during the last few months, often recalled to mind your saying that you knew where to find gold on the Bathurst side, and finding that you proved a good authority in that case, I was tempted to go prospecting here, as I hear you stated that this was a likely locality to find gold. I think you will be glad to hear that your prediction proves to be correct. This place is situated on the right hand branch of the Tarcutta Creek coming up, and is about 45 miles from its junction with the Murrumbidgee River.

"A shepherd in the employment of Messrs. Walker and Co., at a place called American Yards, 8 miles lower down the creek, has also found gold there, of the same description as it is here, and he tells me that he has found some on a hill side that looks as if it had been melted ; but he will not show me any of this.

" I remain, &c"

" FRED. E. MANNING.

"Rev. W.B. Clarke."

Before I conclude, I will also mention that gold in small quantities has been found on the eastern side of the Coast Range in the Nimitabel Mountains, in Bobundara Creek, and at Suecumboco, the latter by two persons whom I saw at Jejedrick, and whom I requested to prospect there.

This report has already extended to such a length, that I do not add any Geological description of the country under review ; but I shall be ready to supply any preliminary information that His Excellency may desire, before I report independently on that head. The Meteorological observations which I made on the Snowy Range and Rivers, I have forwarded to Captain P. P. King, R.N., not being willing to burthen this report with any additional detail.

I trust that His Excellency will be convinced that it is not my fault that no disclosures have been made of any Gold Fields in the south of the same character as those in the west, and that I have been anxious to discover the resources of these regions to the utmost of my power.

I have, &c.

W. B. CLARKE.

To The Hon. The Colonial Secretary.

P.S.

Jejedzrick, 29 December, 1851.

Sir, - In the preceding communication I have mentioned that I have enclosed a specimen of auriferous granite from the Mitta Mitta. This was in anticipation of my intention, but I find myself unable to do so at present, owing to the conduct of my servant, who, instead of following me on the 24th inst., when I had to swim my horse over the Snowy River, kept back, and left behind when he did cross it, after the flood was lower, the bag in which the specimens were kept. Since then there has been no communication with the station to which he carried it, and I must, therefore, wait till I receive it, which I hope will be before next Monday.

I have, &c"

W. B. CLARKE.

No. 1.

Letter from the REV. W. B. CLARKE to the COLONIAL SECRETARY, on the occurrence of gold on Bobundara Creek, and on its existence on Kara Creek, and Gunguslin and Eucumbene Rivers.

(Report VIII.)

Cooma, January 3rd, 1862.

Sir, - I do myself the honor of informing you that I have received, and will forward by Monday's mail, the specimens of auriferous rock which I mentioned in my communication of the 21th December.

I have further the honor of reporting, for the information of his Excellency the Governor General, that I have examined the auriferous locality on Bobundara creek, and find that the gold is there distributed in a peculiar way. The schists and quartzites, which arc so greatly interrupted by granite on the west side of the county of Wallace, reappear for some distance along Bobundara Creek, but are intruded into by basalt of the ranges and plateau, separating the waters of the Murrumbidgee and Snowy Rivers ; and on the side of a hill south of the creek and near the track leading from Cooma to Mafra, the latter rock breaks out from below the slate, which is bleached and transmuted, at the points of junction. A very interesting amygaloid occurs at these points, and gold, in particles occasionally coarser than those so commonly found in the southern districts, is found in contact with the amygdaloid, and between, the planes of the joints traversing that rock, as well as in the rock itself. I have considerable doubt as to the probability of such a matrix being prolific, and I therefore think that but little gold will be found in it, but the metal does occur in the surface soil, and again near the punt crossing place of the Snowy River at Beard's Station, from which to Mafra the prevailing rock is granite.

I conclude from all the geological conditions of the country in this neighbourhood, that the gold is somehow connected with the appearance of the trap, which is evidently younger than the schists, and over considerable areas along the dividing plateau, marked by the summits known as the Brothers, the Peak, Jenny Brother, etc., occurs in intimate proximity to granite and schists.

As the occurrence of gold on the side of the hill in question is, under the circumstances, somewhat peculiar, I have thought it proper to make particular mention of it. I may also add, that having found in a branch of Bobundara Creek a fragment of quartz conglomerate cemented by iron which contained a visible speck of gold, it is not unlikely that the gold dust on the hillside in the amygdaloidal rock, which is very ferruginous, may owe its existence to the presence of iron, and so be resolved into another example of the connexion between the two metals, of which I have already reported some striking occurrences in this colony. Should this view of the case be correct, I shall probably find it established by other localities, on the flanks of the basaltic plateau. I beg leave also to report, that on further examination of Kurt Creek, which is also called. Iron Pot Creek, gold made its appearance near its junction with the Snowy River ; and that it also occurs in the vicinity of the junction with that river, and the Gungarlia and Eucumbene Rivers.

A specimen of gold dust from near Quedong, has been placed in my hands to-day. As it is my intention to examine the county of Wellesley, and to explore the water falling from the coast range towards Cape Howe, I shall shortly be enabled to report more satisfactorily on the condition of the formations on that side of the basaltic region. I am the more anxious to make this extensive investigation, because I understand that rumours exist which have little foundation, and these may attract persons into this part of the country, who may be disappointed at the general character of the gold distributed over it.

I have, &c,

W. B. CLARKE.

P. S. Should it be the intention of his Excellency to publish any portion of my recent reports with those which I understand are to be printed, I shall be greatly obliged if the proofs be placed for correction in the hands of Captain P. P. King, R. N.

To The Hon. The Colonial Secretary.

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[W.B. Clarke, Researches in the Southern Goldfields of New South Wales, Reading and Wellbank, Sydney, 1860.]

REPORT No. VII.

Jindebein, County Wallace,

24th December, 1851.

I have the honor of reporting to you, for the information of His Excellency the Governor General, the progress I have made in the geological investigation of this part of the country since I had the pleasure of addressing you from Cooma.

The extraordinary wetness of the season, and the frequent impossibility of carrying on any researches in consequence thereof, very much retarded my labours after my arrival in this district ; but taking advantage of such intervals of fine weather as occurred, I have been enabled

to explore a very considerable portion of the counties of Beresford and Wallace, and to extend my researches to the south-west, as far as to the he ads of the Murray, the Tambo, the Mitta Mitta, River, returning from Omeo by a course only traversed by stockmen, and only capable of being passed by pack horses, which I employed for the purpose, and which were supplied by [the late] Mr. Brooks of Jejedzeric, who was kind enough to accompany me in the journey. I had thus the satisfaction of passing with my whole train of eleven horses and seven attendants over the highest part of the Muniong Range, and of remaining parts of two days and sleeping one night within a few yards of the snow of Mount Kosciusco, first rendered remarkable by the visit of the Count Strzelecki. I then descended along the rough and very difficult slopes on the right bank of the “Crack-em-back,” following the actual course of the torrent from its western source, and reached this place with no further accident than can be repaired by the tailor, and without any greater inconvenience than results from an attack of slight swamp fever, occasioned by the intense heat of the river valleys and almost constant thunder rains, and the alternations of cold and damp upon the summits of the mountains, where we occasionally lay at night.*

* It may prevent any interruption of the Report and save the necessity of re-describing the route pursued, if I make an extract in this place, from an account of my expedition in 1851, drawn up from my letters and journals, and afterwards published by my much lamented friend, the late Rear Admiral P. P. King, to whom I was indebted for the service of correcting my Reports for the press, and whose memory will he ever endeared to me by numerous official and personal services, during a friendship of seventeen years. The letter which he gives as detailing my journeys over the Alps I have somewhat curtailed; and I could not have referred to it at all, had not my friend already given it a kind of imprimatur. 

[Herein followed an extract from the Sydney Morning Herald, 29 January 1852, which is reproduced in full below. Clarke had close ties with the editor of the Herald and was a regular science correspondent and anonymous writer of letters to the editor during the 1840s and 1850s.]

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[Sydney Morning Herald, Thursday, 29 January 1852]

THE REV. W. B. CLARKE.

WE have for some time been anxiously expecting intelligence of the movements of the Rev. Mr. Clarke, who, as is well known, has been engaged, by order of the Government, in making a geological examination of the southern country since the month of September last. And we are gratified in now being able to present our readers with some interesting details of his proceedings through a correspondence which has passed between him and a friend, from which we have been furnished with the following abstract.

We are aware that the Government have received from him several reports, and that according to a vote of Council, they are in the printer's hands, together with the report of Mr. Stutchbury, the colonial geologist, who has been exploring the district of Bathurst, as far westward as Wellington; as also the report of Sir Thomas Mitchell, of the same district. The long delayed appearance of these reports which however, we understand, are now in a forward state of completion, renders the following brief communication of more consequence than it otherwise would have been.

Mr. Clarke set out on his journey on the 12th September, and commenced his work by exploring the Shoalhaven Gullies in the neighbourhood of Bungonia, as well as the geological feature of the neighbouring country, in which, however, he was much retarded by very unfavourable weather for any out of door work, particularly such as he was engaged upon. It did not, however, prevent our traveller from prosecuting his daily occupation. In fact the opportunity of increasing his already very extensive knowledge of the geological formation of the colony, particularly of this part, was too good to be delayed by bad weather; and the Shoalhaven Gullies, presenting as they do so instructive a section of that portion of the earth's crust for many hundred feet in depth, were too enticing to our enquiring traveller to allow him to wait for a fine day. Indeed, if such had been his practice he would have made but little progress in his investigations, for from a meteorological diary which he kept, of 74 working days, between the 13th September and 5th December, 37 were wet and tempestuous.

The letters contain an interesting account of Mr. Clarke's daily explorations, but as the detail, and the enumeration of the various rocks, and their relative connection with each other, would be uninteresting to the general reader, and as the omission will be fully remedied by the contents of the reports above alluded to, we shall only notice that between the 14th and 25th of September, the country was sufficiently explored, and the existence of gold in the gullies, although not in any large quantity, satisfactorily ascertained; but it seems doubtful whether Mr Clarke thought that it would be sufficiently attainable to repay the labour of procuring it. He says "gold is got readily in all the gullies, but the labourers are few;" one of them had obtained 753 grains of small "grain gold," but of larger size than the general character of the gold from the alluvium of the Turon. One of the grains weighed a quarter of an ounce. "I have been endeavouring to find whence it comes. It is a difficult thing. We have here almost every rock, and many of the minerals of the Macquarie River, and some day the gold may turn up in abundance; but it is difficult to get at it in consequence of the steepness of the ranges, and want of roads."

Proceeding onwards towards the Araluen country, Mr. Clarke reached Braidwood on the 30th September, having stopped to examine and "prospect" at several places on the banks of the river, where appearances attracted his attention, and in most places he succeeded in finding gold, but "very fine—as fine as flour." The country around Braidwood and the heads of the Araluen Creeks, of course, occupied much of his time. He found the formations there of most interesting character, of which the reports give ample detail, dry enough perhaps to those who take no interest in such matters, but to the geologist and cosmogonist of the greatest value. For they record the opinions of a man of science, not only accustomed "to observe," but well versed in the art of "how to observe," formed on the spot, and therefore entitled to every deference.

One point upon which Mr. Clarke, after a minute and careful study of the auriferous rocks of the district, satisfied himself, ought to be mentioned here, although fully detailed in the official reports, viz., that no gold has been found, or is likely to be found, in granite, that is not of "trappean character." The gold found in the Araluen Creek is all "granite gold," unlike that of the Turon and Ophir, which, as is well known, is associated chiefly with schistose and quartzose rocks, but the granite is throughout of trappean character, and he cautions gold-seekers that a search for gold in granite that is not so characterized would be a loss of time, of labour, and of unremunerated expense.*

*The above paragraph was written previously to the appearance of Mr. Clarke's reply to a letter signed Publicus, in the Sydney Morning Herald of the 24th. In consequence of the opinions formed by Mr. Clarke, that that gentleman was desirous of losing no opportunity of investigating the theory, and the subject has been fully discussed by him in the official report. By a reference to Sir Thomas Mitchell's Map, it will be seen that from the So many accounts of the Araluen diggings have been presented, from time to time, in the columns of the Sydney Morning Herald, that any further notice of them seems to be unnecessary, since nothing new can be added to the information already given. That auriferous district is not supposed generally to be one of great extent, and no new discovery has been made there. The digging is principally confined to the Major's, and Bell's, and Deep Creeks, which empty themselves through a broken and precipitous country into the Araluen Creek, where also there were some diggers at work.

After a complete exploration of this neighbourhood, Mr. Clarke proceeded by way of the Long Swamp, round the north end of the Gourock Range. At Turalloo Creek he was detained a week by tempestuous weather, during which he visited and explored the neighbourhood of Lake George, where his search for the precious metal was unsuccessful. On the 3rd November, he reached Queanbeyan, and in crossing the Molonglo River found gold; as also at Micalego, the Berudba, or "Good Good River," Cowera Creek, and at Mondegong, and at other places near the Murrumbidgee River, of quality equal to Araluen, but in quantity yet to be ascertained. Unfortunately, Mr. Clarke, like most travellers who have little assistance, and many other matters to attend to, had broken his two barometers. He had, however, before the accident, completed a very extensive series of observations for the elevation of the country and mountains in the neighbourhood of the Shoalhaven River and the Araluen Country, but he was now left with only an Aneroid, an instrument very useful for ascertaining the elevation of hills of small elevation, but not one to be depended upon for elevations of more than 3000 feet above the sea. Mr. Clarke, however, had furnished himself with a theodolite, by which many useful relative heights of mountains were ascertained; not so satisfactorily, perhaps, as by a barometer, but yet sufficiently approximative as to be of great value. A make-shift, boiling-water apparatus was also used by Mr. Clarke, so that by one method or other, much information upon this highly important matter was obtained.

Mr. Clarke reached Cooma on the 15th November, where he was again detained by rainy and tempestuous weather; during which, in spite of such disagreements, he extended his exploration, and satisfied himself that very little gold was to found in the neighbourhood. He says, "I have prospected in numerous creeks and ranges, and am quite sure no gold in considerable abundance exists on the table land of Maneero."

Much reference is made by Mr. Clarke to the chain of mountains which forms so remarkable a feature in the southern portion of the colony—"the Southern Alps." At first he seems to have been rather disappointed in their appearance, for he says, "From this" (Cooma) "a lofty conical mountain, which I afterwards found to be one called Wooiula by the aborigines, raised its snow-clad peak into the clouds, and is very prominent from various elevated parts of the neighbourhood. I make it 6507 feet above the sea. Count Strzelecki made Mount Kosciusko, which is called Piallow by the blacks, and a little to the south of Wooiula, 6507 feet above the sea. Bull's peak of Coolumbula, in the same chain, I make 6156 feet. The Ram's Head of Townshend, the "Burramangee" of the blacks of this part of the country, is 6600 feet. There is nothing striking in this chain. After having been on the Swiss Alps and on Mont Blanc these mountains appear comparatively insignificant; they have no grandeur or dignity. One reason is

we are so high at the point of observation." Mr. Clarke, however, on a nearer approach to these mountains, seems to have formed a better opinion of them. And it is no detraction to their character to consider them inferior in dignity or grandeur to the Swiss Alps; nor does it lessen in our consideration the toils and dangers which our traveller has to undergo in the exploration of the snowy region in his view, and which he rather disparagingly describes up to this point (Cooma).

Mr. Clarke had now travelled in 74 days upwards of 1250 miles, of which period, as has been before said, 34 days were wet and unfavourable; so that a few days' rest was not only desirable, but absolutely necessary, for the traveller to take, in order to prepare for a journey which he then decided upon making. But it is time to let Mr. Clarke speak for himself, as he does in the following letter, written after his return from the exploration of the country between Cooma and Lake Omeo, which is situated on the borders of Victoria, between it and Gipps Land; dated from Jejedric, a station of Mr. Richard Brooks, in the neighbourhood of the Snowy River, December 27th to 29th, 1851.

"My dear ——, I thank you for the Aneroid barometer which A —— was good enough to bring safe thus far, on his way to Gipps Land. I found it on my return from the Mitta Mitta; my only regret is, that I had it not with me on the Alps, for I could then have completed a section, as I have come right across it up and down from Thalimberamangee to Jindebein, by a track known in parts only to any one stockman, and followed out by the help of two or three guides whom I gathered on the way. So far as I can learn, only one party before has ever travelled the route; at least two persons whom I found squatting on the Indi where it is called Pa-derra by the blacks (at Tangaruccan), and with whom I remained on the 21st, in order to have service, told me they had never seen but two persons besides my party since they had been there. One had not seen a minister of the Gospel for eleven, and the other for eighteen years! It was well worth all my fatigue, in a journey of 250 miles over such a country, to have the opportunity of rendering them that Christmas has for the first time been scripturally remembered in that solitary wilderness. I have never felt so much as on late occasions the value of the office of a messenger of grace and salvation. The most gorgeous cathedral, filled with holiday worshippers, is not more pleasing in my recollection than that noble landscape by which we were surrounded, and the company of pilgrims who stood by me under a burning sun on the side of the hill, listening to my homely words of encouragement and exhortation. It is to be hoped that I may never be reproached with forsaking my calling to seek for the gold that perisheth, for the judgments of the Lord, which I proclaimed amidst the mountains to those benighted souls, 'are more to be desired than gold, yea, than much fine gold.'

"I have given you my meteorological journal, such as it is. But it requires some explanation in connection with the mere registration of temperature, which the barometers, had I not so unfortunately broken them at the Shoalhaven, would at once have given. There is little to interest in the first part of it, but I think you will feel interested in the journey to and from Mitta Mitta. My journey was in this wise: the blackfellows had told me that one had found a piece of gold somewhere beyond the boundary line of the colony, and that he had tried to hammer it into a breastplate, and finding he could not, he had thrown it away. I heard also, that the Brassy Mountain of which I made mention before, was in every one's idea a gold mountain. "Gourock Range" being so near the Araluen Ranges, gold might be expected to be found in all the creeks which derive their source from it, and as Mr. Clarke was detained by the weather at Turallo Creek, which takes its rise in the western flank of that range, he took some pains to ascertain the extent of gold in its neighbourhood. On arriving at his bivouac, he wrote, "On Monday, I intend prospecting here. If there be no gold then what will be the use of quartz and schists"; he had not then examined the character of the said schists, but in his next letter he described the search as entirely unsuccessful although a hole had been sunk to the bed rock, which is of mica slate, through an alluvium of decomposed schist and sand. Upon subsequently examining the granite on the summit of a neighbouring hill, he observed a total absence of hornblende, which then satisfactorily accounted for the absence of gold. Whether the granite on the eastern flanks or the summit of the Gourock, is of trappean character, has not perhaps been ascertained. Gold, certainly, in a small quantity, has been found at the Long Swamp, the recipient of the waters of the Malloon Creek, which rises in the Gourock range, but it is previously joined by the creek from Modbury, which it is supposed rises in the Shoalhaven country, from which the gold may have been brought. Or otherwise the source of the Mulloon is immediately under the vertex of the range where the rock may be of hornblende character, which is not the case with Turaloo for its source is lower down on the western flank of the ranges. It should be observed that in the foregoing remarks Mr. Clarke, who has already spoken for himself, is in no way responsible. They are merely the observations of his correspondent who, perhaps, like many others, has but a small smattering of geological knowledge.

….. mountain. I also heard that some young men had found a few specks of gold in the ranges along the Indi, or Limestone River, and Sir Thomas Mitchell, according to Baker's almanac, says gold is likely to be found there; I found also a great desire on the part of many persons to know whether the Limestone River is or is not the true head of the Murray, and you will remember that Strzelecki says he was at the head of the Murray at Kosciusko. All these things weighed on my mind, and I determined to go and see for myself. I could not take my cart, it being quite useless for such a journey, and therefore I had to get help. Mr. Richard Brooks, of Jegedric, instantly fell into my views, and by his assistance I was enabled to take two pack-horses, carrying provisions, and blankets, tarpaulin, cradle, pan, spade, pick, tinpots, &c. My man and his man, and a settler named Pendergast, who has a station on Omeo Plain, and knew the way, made up our party, with six dogs.

We left this on Wednesday, December 9th, and went by way of Colibragong, over high ranges of slate and granite to the Snowy River at Jindebein. As the river was high, we crossed ourselves and baggage over in a hollow log, having driven the horses and dogs through. As we did not reach the river until sunset, we were not over until dark, and the consequence was that we got astray; and at eleven P.M., Brooks and I managed to find out a shepherd's hut on Moamba Creek. The next morning at five, we started and reached Wallandaby Creek at Brook's station, at Crakenbac; but being a little unwell, I did not proceed further that night than the Moamba River. Next day, examining the country as we went along, we proceeded to Tongaro, or Jacob's River, and crossed about one mile above the junction with the Snowy River, in a little flat on the bank of the former. The descent from Jacob's Point is a very long and tedious affair, but the view is magnificent; from various points we got sight of the prominent peaks along the high ranges to W.N.W.; one of which, the "Cobbaras," bore west by south, and what I supposed to be Mount Koscuisco bore N. 45 degrees W. Next day, after prospecting, we moved on along the Snowy River, but finding it impracticable to follow the river, owing to the effect of the late floods, we took to the ranges, and after some dangerous sidelings went right over a granite range about 2000 feet above, and made a descent upon Moyengal River about a mile and a half above the junction with the Snowy River. Next day, 14th, being Sunday, we camped on an uncomfortable slope, and had divine service under a tree just over the river. Here began my late illness. The heat was insufferable owing to the steam, and the flies an almost intolerable nuisance. Next day we ascended that terrible climb "Nine mile-pinch," an ascent of four miles with only nine breaks. The view from the top reminded me of many mountain scenes in Europe. The hills are very steep, cleft from top to bottom, but being chiefly of slate are well timbered and grassed. Hence we proceeded to Ingeegoodbee, Berrima Range River, where we camped at noon to prospect and lunch, and then on to the creek along the boundary, and got to Wiendrel or Freestone River about half past four, where we stayed an hour, and then climbing a fearful hill passed under the "Cobboras" and the swamp of Inanoo (the Playground) (so called by the first European traveller, because he saw black children at play), and so to "Kurnoolee," the Native Dog River, after dark, just under the dividing range, which is here very low. The place was rough and damp, and we lay rather uncomfortably on tussocks of coarse grass.

Next day we ascended a scrubby range between the Gipps Land and Murray waters, and obtained a view of the snowy range at the head of the "Ovens," bearing W. 20° N. (true). Then we descended the Indi, where its course is a strong small stream over pebbles, through a swamp; here we rested for lunch, and proceeded over granite ranges to Jugylmangee Swamp, having crossed the heads of the Tambo and Indi under Mount Leinster range, where we slept. The next day proceeded to McFarlane's station at Omeo, and thence to the Mitta Mitta, where I came upon a gold field (granite gold) in the river basin, extending for 12 miles above and 8 miles below Crook's station to Mount Gibbo. On Friday, 19th, we proceeded from Jugylmangee over the ranges, N.E. to Widgenderra, Buumba River, Hilamarong, Jelbagong Scrub, and Buumvba or Gibbo River, and so up Jelbagong to a swampy springy mountain about 6000 feet above the sea, above Wadymandouree and Buckwong Creeks, which run into the Indi or Upper Hume. It was difficult to find a spot on which to lay our blankets on account of the "Bull Dog Ants." But we had scarcely done so when a most furious tempest came on, and we were deluged with rain. Our party had been increased by two guides from Omeo and five horses and two dogs. We were up and on our way at 5 A.M., and wending through dense scrub as we could, we travelled, as on yesterday, along a succession of schistose spurs, strewed with innumerable fallen trees, to a swamp, and then ascending a low range at Wanga came to the Indi at Piaderra, where we crossed it to Tanruccan.

No sooner had we reached this den of heat, damp, and flies, than another tempest more furious than that of the preceding night pounced upon us. We camped, however, beyond the brush and stayed Sunday. Then I became very ill. Next morning we started a little before 6 o'clock, an extra horseman and horse in company, and after some flirtation with scrub, low and steep hills, and flats, mounted a nearly vertical wall of slate at Cooroongoomee to Woolayian and descended instantly just as steeply the other side of a knife-edge to a swiftly flowing, snow-fed, affluent of the Indi to Mow-wat, and again rose up a wall of slate to Jungunora and Doornaman. In this ascent I fainted twice, and was laid out as if dead or dying, on the first flat stopping the whole party. I was cold as death, yet burning hot, unable to stand, scarcely able to breathe, and I really thought I was dying—but after a rest of an hour I proceeded, and came with difficulty through a dense scrub, masses of fallen trees, and swampy ground, with blocks of gneisiform and concretionary granite to Burraraangee and Narramplat, and then to Theroton, and camped under the peak of Muniong, within a stone's cast of Kosciusko, between which and my blankets ran a creek into the Indi. I lay ill for several hours in a hollow rock—"the shadow of a great rock in a weary land"—and then proceeded to do what I could. Four thunderstorms passed over us—grand from our position, which commanded the kingdoms of the world, and the glory of them.

The night was fine but chilly at dawn, when the loud noise of the snow streams which were rushing along during the heat were hushed in silence by the coldness of dawn; and such a sunrise greeted my eyes as I shall not speedily see rivalled. I lay facing the east, and saw all the processes of dressing the day, and wished I had been a Turner to have transferred the tints of that glorious drapery, in which morning marched along the horizon, to my canvas. After breakfast I went out to take bearings and transact other necessary matters, and then, parting with three of our party who proceeded to Moamba, we went on to the Crakenbac, and by dint of scrambling, leaping, and fatiguing clambering along the steep slopes of that defile, came to Threddo and Wallandaby to sleep. Here Mr. Brooks and our guide left me, and his man Dick and my man 'Friday' and myself, made our way to the Snowy River with five horses. 'Friday,' who is the slowest of mortals, did not reach the river till an hour after Dick and I; when we got thither we found it in flood, flowing like a stream from the paddles of a steamer." Mr. Clark and Dick leaving "Friday" behind, who did not seem to approve of the proceedings of his master, descended the bank and plunged in. "The horse was immediately off his legs, and carried me over without difficulty, and when I landed wet over my saddle, for my horse swam very low, and required my servant, I found he had remained behind with my bedding, bags, and sketch-book, and to this hour, as the river continues swollen, I have neither blankets of my own nor specimens to forward to Sydney, nor sketches to copy.

I stayed awhile at Jindinbein with Mr. Ryrie who had come to meet me, and came on by night to this place in as furious a tempest as was ever known, wet—wet—wet—sick—tired and weary. My servant managed to cross in the afternoon, by the aid of three blacks—one seated on the horse behind him, and the other two swimming behind him as escort; but the horse crossed without swimming. Next day, Christmas Day, I reached this place where I am awaiting the arrival of my bed, &c. The family are as kind as they can be, and I am getting well again, intending D. V., to have another southern cruize before I turn north again."

A letter has since been received from Mr. Clarke from a place called Juttaba, near Bombalo, dated 17th January, on his way to Panbula, in order to explore the country about Twofold Bay, and, if possible, to reach Cape Howe. The travelling is, however, through so broken a country, that he was not sure of being able to effect it exactly in the way that he had intended. He had however reached a camp within 100 feet of the dividing range, overlooking the country below it and the sea coast; after exploring the geology of the Uramella, Kybean, McLaughlin, Brogo, and Rembouka Rivers, of which the two last fall into the sea at Mogoreka, about seven miles north of Twofold Bay, the others being the sources of the Murrumbidgee.

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Last updated: 27 January 2022

Michael Organ